Danish legacy springing back to life in Tranquebar


The New Indian Express, Tiruchy on Tuesday, November 11, 2003.

Not many colonial structures have the fortune of getting renovated through the erstwhile European occupants. When everybody thought that the Tranquebar fort and other structures in the erstwhile Danish establishment will become ruins in the course of time, luck descended from unexpected quarters. Some prominent Danish citizens who came on a visit to India saw the dilapidated condition these structures were in and decided to help. And they did, to be followed by help from the Danish government itself.


Danish Fort settlements and other monuments in Tranquebar.

Tranquebar (Tharangampadi), a beautiful village situated on the shores of the Bay of Bengal near Nagapattinam, attracted the attention of the Danish people during the 16th century and became their prime trading centre in India.
With a majestic 'Dansborg' Fort, two churches, King and Queen Streets, and a splendid Governor's Bungalow located in the serene sea-shore, Tranquebar has everything needed for a place to be declared 'a heritage town' . But, many monuments in this town are in a sorry state today.
At the entrance of Tranquebar stands the majestic 'Gateway of Tranquebar' - a marvellous arch constructed nearly 400 years ago, its piece of Danish architecture. Till recently, this grand gateway was in a dilapidated state.
A few years back, a high-level team comprising prominent citizens from Denmark visited Tranquebar. Pained to see the poor state of monuments erected by their forefathers, they formed a 'Tranquebar Association' in Denmark. With the
liberal help of the Queen of Denmark and the cooperation extended by the Department of Archaeology and museums, Government of Tamilnadu, they took up the renovation of the gateway last year. A few months back, the renovation work was completed. They have now expressed their willingness to renovate all the monuments in Tranquebar stage-by-stage.

The only monument to be maintained well till date is the New Jerusalem Church - built in 1718, it's 'an elegant, white-tiled shrine bearing the royal crown on its facade. The structure also holds the grace of the first Danish missionary, Bartholomaus Zeigenbalg who set up the first ever printing press in India at Tranquebar. Zeigenbalg has contributed significantly to Tamil litterature.
Very near to the beach, there is an old bedraggled bungalow, standing precariously, struggling against the force of gravity. This was built in 1784 and served as the official residence of the Danish Governor. This beautiful building is neglected and inaccessible now.

Just opposite to this bungalow  is the magnificent Dansborg, the Danish fort, built in 1620. This is a stunning piece of Viking architecture, with enclosing stonewalls and cannons facing the sea. Though the fort still looks majestic in outward appearance, it certainly needs renovation. The inner portions are in ruins. The Denmark Association carried out some renovation works last year, but much needs to be done. 
On the sea front, fighting a losing battle against the sea is the oldest monument in Tranquebar - the Masillanathar Temple, built in 1305 by Kulasekara Pandiyan. This temple was eroded brick by trick by the furious sea waves. What rema ins today is the skeleton of the outer pragaram of the temple and the Masillamani swami statue is a huge Siva Lingam whose face shines though it has not seen the polishing oil for years! The Masillamani Sannadhi too is inaccessible.

- R Venkatramani


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